The Trango Towers are a family of rock towers in Gilgit-Baltistan, north of Pakistan. The Karakoram is home to the Trango, which attracts numerous climbers worldwide due to its towering cliffs and challenging rock climbing. The Great Trango is in the Baltoro Glacier region of northern Pakistan. It is the tallest formation in Trango Valley, with a vertical granite face of 4,396 feet - the highest in the world. This spire is over 20,000 feet above sea level. These formations, along with Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) to the northwest, dominate the horizon on the path to the more prominent mountains of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, and Nanga Parbat.

 A Legacy of Trango Tower Expeditions:

In 1977, an American expedition led by the renowned mountaineer Galen Rowell achieved the first successful ascent of Trango Tower. Since then, many climbers have conquered this legendary mountain, leaving their mark on it. The Trango Tower expedition still attracts climbers from around the world who are eager to test their limits and experience the thrill of summiting one of the most challenging peaks in the world.

Expedition Highlights:

• Soaring 6,286 meters (20,623 feet) into the sky, the Trango Tower is a formidable granite giant in the Karakoram Mountains, beckoning only the most skilled and intrepid climbers.
• Scaling the Trango Tower demands exceptional technical climbing skills, unwavering determination, and a deep respect for the mountain's unforgiving terrain.
• The first successful ascent was achieved in 1977, led by renowned mountaineer Galen Rowell. It paved the way for countless climbers to test their limits against the mountain's imposing presence.
• Beyond the physical challenge, the Trango Tower expedition offers a profound journey of self-discovery and camaraderie, forging unbreakable bonds among climbers as they navigate treacherous paths and support one another through the arduous ascent.
• If you possess the spirit of adventure and unwavering determination, embark on your Trango Tower expedition, etching your name among those who have dared to conquer this majestic granite giant.

Our Experience:

One of the most technical and challenging mountains on earth is the Trango Group of Towers. We have organized dozens of expeditions to this beautiful mountain. In 2008, we collected the Trango Free Dream Expedition. The members were Jerry Gore, Leader British; Gaz Parry, Member British; Denis Roy, French; Pierre Muller, French; David Kaszlikow, Polish; and Eliza Kaszlinkow, Polish. We organize an expedition to this beautiful mountain each year for rock lovers. To make it more accessible for rock climbers, we are now running fixed departure for Trango Tower. It is straightforward to organize, with no peak fee or government restriction. Contact us for day-by-day itinerary, price, and service details.

Tour Detail:

D-1) Arrival Day In Islamabad, Pakistan:

Most of the international flights arrive at Islamabad International Airport in the mornings. Your Guide will meet and greet you at the airport, then you will be transferred to the hotel. The rest of the days are free to recover from your journey. Later in the day, when everyone has arrived, we will have a group briefing about the Trango Tower Pakistan Expedition. Depending on the time available to us, there may be an option to do some sightseeing in Islamabad, A purpose-built City in 1961 as the new capital of Pakistan

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• Dinner.

D-2) Islamabad to Skardu flight, (2,230m) 45 minutes:

If the flight is cancelled, we will drive on KKH to Chilas, Isb to Chilas, 461km. 8-9 H-Drive

Today we travel to Islamabad Airport to take a spectacular flight (weather permitting) across the mountains to Skardu, the Capital of Baltistan. It’s a 45-minute flight which offers Spectacular Mountains views of the Himalayas & Karakoram mountain range, you can also enjoy the breathtaking views of the world’s 9th highest peak, Nanga Parbat (8126m), if the weather is clear then we might be able to see K2 and Gondogoro Pass as well. Check in to the Hotel, rest of the day will be spent visiting the local Bazar, historical forts, and scenic lakes or visiting ancient rock inscriptions, one of which is of 8th century Manthal Lord Buddha Rock that shows traces of Buddhist monks and pilgrims who influenced the area before Islam.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-3) Sightseeing & Preparation Day, Skardu:

In the morning you will walk up to the remains of Kharpocho Fort (built in early 1700), which overlooks the town and has a great view of the Indus River. If you are into photography then this is a perfect location to take photos of Skaradu Town at sunrise or sunset. (we can arrange this for you). We will then walk to a small village, called Organic Village, which grows all its crops organically. The afternoon is free to explore. perhaps you would like to take an optional jeep tour to Satpara Lake or explore the bazaar.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-4) Drive To Johla Via Askoli (3,100m), 8 Hours drive:

Following day you will drive along the Mighty Indus, Shigar and Braldu River to the lush green Shigar Valley towards Askoli. Askoli is the last village before entering into the heart of Karakoram. We will spend 1-2 hours in Askoli, which is high above the thundering Braldu River. Askole is a single street of wooden houses, backed by irrigated fields of corn, potatoes and groves of apricot trees. Wend our way through the lanes and fields of Askole which will be the last settlement that we will encounter on our trek to Concordia. Watching the local people go about their daily business is a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the hardy Balti people.

In Askole, you will meet some of your porters. After meeting our porters, we will continue our Trango Tower Expedition towards Johla camp.

The valley opens out to reveal the Biafo Glaciers, we have our first taste of moraine, we cross the snout of the glacier and descend to the green spot beside the river at Korofong. Korfong is located along the banks of the Braldu River.

From Korofong we continue our journey by following the road up a side valley to do a detour to cross the fast-flowing river by a bridge. We then drive for another five minutes or so to reach the Jhola Camp. The views are impressive with Bakhor Das (5,809m) and Paiju Peak’s needles in the distance.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-5) Trek To Paiju (3,380m) 6 Hours:

Today will be your first walking day of the Trango Tower Expedition. After organising all the equipment and supplies our porters load up for the journey ahead towards Paiju. The path runs for a while at the very edge of the river, before climbing to higher ground and allowing us excellent views of the impressive Paiju Peak. We have to negotiate a couple of streams today and depending on the melting of the glaciers above, we may have to ford these (sports sandals or old trainers useful). Paiju is a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak (6,611m). From this camp, we have the first views of the immense Baltoro Glacier, and granite peaks of the Trango and Cathedral groups, and if the weather is clear then might see a glimpse of k2.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-6) Trek To Trango Tower Base Camp (4,900m), 8 Hours Walk:

From our camp at Paiju, a walk of approximately one hour brings us to the snout of the Baltoro Glacier. After viewing the outpouring of melt water from the ice we now climb up onto the back of this great beast. At this point, the ice of the glacier is completely covered by rubble and rocks and although we are following a trail used by many expeditions, the going here can be quite tough. The trail undulated as we climb over the swells of the flowing glacier and it is fascinating to think that the stones underfoot could have come from the summit of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum or K2. Gradually we work our way across the glacier to its south side where we can use a path along the lateral moraine. Heading roughly east we continue, sometimes on the moraine and sometimes down beside the glacier until we reach a side valley. At the snout of the Baltoro Glacier, the trail divides. We will take the left branch to reach the Trango Tower base camp. En route, we will enjoy spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama including Paiyu Peak (6660m), Uli Biaho Tower (6417m), Liligo, Urdukas Peak, Gasherbrum IV (7,925m), Mitre Peak (6025m), etc. The amphitheatre provides an ideal venue to appreciate some of the most inspiring and unique mountain vistas in the world. Finally, we are at the Base Camp of Great Trango Tower and hard work has paid off with sensational views of the Cathedral Towers, the Trango Group and the striking rock tower of Uli Biaho.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

7-32) Acclimatisation & Climbing Period:

Non-guided climbing of Trango Tower will start from today onwards. During the climbing period of Trango Tower, our staff will be at base camp to help and assist you.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-33) Trek Back To Paju (3,380m), 6 Hours Walk:

After the climbing period of Trango Tower, we will head back towards Islamabad by following the same itinerary backwards. Today we will trek on the Baltoro Glacier with spectacular views of the Trango Towers towards Paiju. As we approach, we have to detour to the south to cross the Liligo Glacier. This glacier defies world trends in that it is steadily growing. Twenty years ago its snout was half a mile up the valley and now it has collided with the main Baltoro Glacier, with the result that the churning forces have made it impossible to cross without the detour.

Having made the detour and returned to the main Baltoro Glacier, we now cross to its north side, climbing over the huge swells of the glacier towards the ramparts of Uli Biaho. On the other side, we then work our way down to the valley where we pick up the main trail and pass by the snout where the underground river which flows through the length of the glacier erupts out in a cascade to become the Braldu. The last hour of the day is an easy walk on a good path although there is a final uphill pull to reach the campsite. On our first arrival here we relished the prospect of a cooler climate ahead. Now we will welcome its warmth! We will spend our night at the green oasis of Paiju.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-34) Trek Back To Jhola, (3,170m), 7 Hours Walk:

This will be our final walking day of the Trango Tower Expedition. Now we are off the glacier and at a lower elevation it is considerably warmer and we may make an early start to use the cool of the morning. Leaving Paiju we walk on a good trail down the valley. Once again it is surprising how different the experience is compared to our ascent. The trail rises and falls as we cross several alluvial fans. We have to cross some side streams today, mostly using makeshift bridges or stepping-stones but it may be necessary also to wade across, especially later in the day. The source of all these streams is meltwater and so they grow bigger as the day gets warmer. At one point the trail passes close to the river beside walls of conglomerate and it is possible to feel its tremendous power. We follow the main Braldu River downstream to its confluence with the Panma River where we turn north-east to reach a camping place beside the toll bridge at the place known as Jhola.

Today we can celebrate the success of our Trango Tower Expedition with the porters and hand out their tips as a token of our appreciation for their hard work throughout the trek. Also, we often give them any spare kit that we no longer need which is also a way of saying thank You. Most of our porters are from this village so later on at the campsite we will say goodbye to our crew who are now our friends and we will perhaps have a final party here.

Spend your last evening under the stars in the tent at Johla camp.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-35) Drive Back To Skardu Via Shigar Valey, 8 Hours drive:

Our vehicles will already be waiting for us in Johla so we make an early start for the return drive to Skardu. Today we will return to civilisation after a few weeks in the wilderness. Soon we will follow a pleasant trail which leads down to the little ablation area beside the Biafo Glacier known as Korofon, surrounded by sparse grasses and tamarisk bushes. Beyond Korofon we first follow the glacial moraine of the Biafo and then drive beside the river that emerges from its snout until we reach a bridge which allows us to cross to its north side. The road passes through a wide flat area known locally as the ‘King’s Polo Ground’ before climbing to pass through a convenient cleft in a ridge of rock which threatens to bar further progress down the valley. Descending steeply down the other side of this ‘window’, we have a pleasant stroll through a boulder-strewn landscape before climbing once again up onto a shallow plateau. We cross several small side valleys and begin to see various signs of habitation before reaching an irrigation channel that brings meltwater to the field of Askole. We follow the channel for a while and can appreciate the tremendous skill of the local people who have harnessed the distant snows to grow their crops in a high-altitude desert. Eventually, we reach green fields and stone walls which lead us into the village. Most of our porters are from Askole and will be pleased to be home. Here, we will say goodbye to our Porters and continue our journey towards Skardu.

Crossing the Braldu on a suspension bridge we follow the remarkable road built through the Braldu Gorge. It is not uncommon for this road to be blocked by landslides and we may have to change vehicles if the road is blocked. If this is the case we will retain some of our porters to transfer the bags while we walk across any landslide areas. Once we have climbed up out of the gorge at the other end the road improves as we travel down the fertile Shigar Valley to its confluence with the Indus. Now we have a faster, smoother journey on a paved road following the great Indus River into Skardu. Arriving in the town we will check in to our hotel and there will be time for a welcome shower and clean up before sitting down to dinner. Tonight we will enjoy the comfort of a real bed.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-36) Fly Back To Islamabad,

If the weather is clear then will take the flight to Islamabad. Skardu Airport is a 40-minute drive from the hotel along a good road lined with poplar trees. Boarding our plane we have an exciting flight out of the valley, once again passing by Nanga Parbat before turning south for Islamabad. Arriving in the Pakistani capital after a period in the mountains is always a strange experience and it takes a little time to get used to the hustle and bustle and especially the traffic. Our private bus will be waiting at the airport to transfer us to the group hotel and once we have settled in it will be time to take lunch (unless we have experienced unusual flight delays). After lunch, the rest of the day is free for independent sightseeing or to relax at the hotel. Your Guide will advise you on the possibilities for sightseeing. Shopping for hand-made Iranian & Afghan rugs is a usually popular option. This evening we come together again for a celebratory meal at the hotel or in a local restaurant.

Skardu Airport has recently upgraded to An international airport with the latest GPS, which means the chances of flights getting cancelled are minimal.

In Case of Flight cancellation, we will drive down the Karakoram Highway. We will arrive in Chillas late afternoon.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-37) Contingency day in case of delays, Islamabad:

If driving down the Karakoram Highway we will arrive in Islamabad late afternoon. If we manage to fly the day before then we will spend today sightseeing in Islamabad. In the evening we will have a final group meal.

Skardu is a ‘weather dependent’ airport which means the planes will only fly here if the visibility allows line of sight to the runway by the pilot on the approach. Fortunately, the weather is mostly clear in the Karakoram but local weather conditions can bring clouds and rain from time to time. If we cannot fly we will travel down to Islamabad by road along the spectacular Karakoram Highway. If we flew up to Skardu this would be a bonus as it is a fantastic travel experience in its own right. The drive down the Indus River to Islamabad takes two days so this is an important contingency day to allow for this. If we have flown to Islamabad this will be a further day for sightseeing in the capital and your leader will advise the group on the options available for today.

• ACCOMMODATION
• HOTEL
• MEALS
• BLD

D-38) Fly Back Home:

After Breakfast you will be transferred to Islamabad International Airport for the flight back home.

• End of “Trango Tower Expedition”.