Lobsang Spire Expedition Pakistan
The Karakoram Mountains, a majestic range stretching across Pakistan, China, and India, are home to some of the world's most awe-inspiring peaks. Among these giants stands Lobsang Spire, a 5,707-meter (18,720-foot) mountain that offers an exhilarating challenge for experienced mountaineers. Join Lobsang Spire Expedition Pakistan on an unforgettable expedition to conquer this formidable peak and experience the breathtaking beauty of the Karakoram.
Location:
Lobsang Spire is located in the Baltoro Glacier, in the Karakoram Mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated near the confluence of the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen Glaciers, just a few kilometers from the famous K2 Mountain, its climbing approach is from Biale glacier with a beautiful pasture base camp, near the old silk route settlements. Nearby peaks are Lhungka Ri 6307m, Muztagh Tower 7284m, Thyor 6735m, Black Tooth 6719m, 5594 unnamed peak, Biale 6729m, Biange 6431m, and half dozen unnamed peaks.
Weather:
The weather in Lobsang Spire is cold and dry. The average temperature in the summer is 10 degrees Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit), and the average temperature in the winter is -20 degrees Celsius (-4 degrees Fahrenheit). The precipitation is low, with an average of 100 millimeters (4 inches) of rain per year. The weather can be unpredictable, so it is important to be prepared for anything.
Expedition:
The Lobsang Spire Expedition is a demanding but rewarding undertaking, suitable for individuals with a high level of mountaineering experience and physical fitness. Participants will embark on a journey through the stunning landscapes of the Baltoro Glacier, the world's longest glacial corridor, and establish camps at strategic locations along the route. Our experienced mountaineering guides will provide expert instruction and support throughout the expedition, ensuring that every step is taken with safety and precision.
Expedition Highlights
- Conquer Lobsang Spire, a challenging yet rewarding mountain peak
- Experience the breathtaking beauty of the Karakoram Mountains
- Traverse the Baltoro Glacier, the world's longest glacial corridor
- Gain valuable mountaineering skills under the guidance of experienced instructors
- Immerse yourself in the rich culture and traditions of Pakistan
Historic Expeditions:
Lobsang Spire, standing at 5707 meters on the Biale Glacier, has a storied expedition history. In 1983, a team including climbers Child, Scott, and Thexton achieved the first ascent via its challenging south pillar. The adjacent Lobsang Peak at 6225 meters and the successful ascent of Lobsang Spire at 5547 meters in the same year by a different team further highlight the mountaineering legacy of this Karakoram giant. These expeditions not only showcased the prowess of the climbers but also contributed significantly to the exploration of this formidable mountain range. Tour detail:
Tour Detail:
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D-1) ARRIVAL DAY IN ISLAMABAD, PAKISTAN
Welcome to Pakistan. Most of the international flights arrive at Islamabad International Airport in the mornings. Our representative will meet and greet you at the airport and transfer you to the group hotel. The rest of the days are free to recover from your journey. Later in the day, when everyone has arrived, we will have a group briefing about the K2 and Gondogoro La trek. Depending on the time available to us, there may be an option to do some sightseeing in Islamabad, A purpose-built City in 1961 as the new capital of Pakistan.
- ACCOMMODATION
- Hotel De Papae or similar
- MEALS
- Dinner.
D-2) SPECTACULAR FLIGHT TO SKARDU (2,230m)
Today, you will travel to Islamabad International Airport to take a spectacular flight (weather permitting) across the mountains to Skardu, the Capital of Baltistan. It’s a 45-minute flight which offers Spectacular Mountains views of the Himalayas & Karakoram mountain range and breathtaking views of the world’s 9th highest peak, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), if the weather is clear, we might be able to see K2 and Gondogoro Pass as well. Check in to the Hotel, and the rest of the day will be spent visiting the local Bazar, historical forts, and scenic lakes or visiting ancient rock inscriptions, one of which is of 8th-century Manthal Lord Buddha Rock that shows traces of Buddhist monks and pilgrims who influenced the area before Islam.
Please note: Flights to and from Skardu only fly if the weather is clear. Skardu Airport is in a narrow valley, and the pilots need a clear view to land the plane. The weather in the mountains mostly stays clear, so flights rarely get cancelled.
Skardu Airport was upgraded to international status and underwent a re-inauguration on December 2, 2021, following extensive enhancements aimed at transforming it into a prominent tourism hub. The airport now facilitates direct flights from Karachi, Lahore, Islamabad, and Dubai. Since the upgrades, flight cancellations have significantly decreased, and cancellation chances are now very low. Last summer, we had only one flight cancellation, and our clients had to travel by road on KKH. While we travel on KKH, we avoid travelling through the area, which is not recommended by the UK and US foreign offices.
In case of flight cancellation, you will travel on Karakorum Highway to Naran for a night stay, and the next day continue to Skardu. Islamabad to Naran distance is 281 km, and 9 hour drive. Naran to Skardu is a 10-hour drive on the Karakoram highway along the mighty Gilgit and Indus rivers. Travelling by road on the Karakoram Highway is as spectacular as taking a flight.
- ACCOMMODATION
- Summit Hotel or similar, Skardu
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
D-3) SIGHTSEEING & PREPARATION DAY, SKARDU
Skardu is the Capital of the ancient Baltistan Kingdom so there is so much to see and explore. It is the getaway of many famous treks and Climbing expeditions, including K2 and Gondogoro La Trek. In the morning, you will walk up to the remains of Kharpocho Fort (built early 1700), which overlooks the town and has a great view of the Indus River. If you are into photography, this is a perfect location to take photos of Skaradu Town at sunrise or sunset. (we can arrange this for you). We will then walk to a small village called Organic Village, which grows all its crops organically. The afternoon is free to explore the mountain town, take an optional jeep ride to Satpara Lake or explore the bazaar.
Night stay in Skardu.
- ACCOMMODATION
- Summit Hotel or similar, Skardu
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
D-4) DRIVE TO JOHLA VIA ASKOLI (3,100 m) 8 HOURS
Following day you will drive along the Mighty Indus, Shigar, then Braldu River to Shigar Valley towards Askoli. Askoli is the last village before entering the heart of Karakoram. You will spend some time in Askole to meet your porters. Askoli is high above the thundering Braldu River. Askole is a single street of wooden houses backed by irrigated fields of corn, potatoes and groves of apricot trees.
After a short break in Askole, you will wend your way through the lanes and fields of Askole, the last settlement you will encounter on our trek to Concordia. Watching the local people go about their daily business is a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the hardy Balti people. The valley opens up to reveal the Biafo Glaciers and your first taste of moraine walking. Cross the snout of the Glacier and descend to the green spot beside the Braldu River at Korofon.
From Korfong, you will continue your K2 and Gondogoro La trek towards Johla campsite. Continue your day by following the road up a side valley, and do a detour to cross the fast-flowing Braldu River by a bridge. The views are impressive with Bakhor Das (5,809m) and Paiju Peak’s needles in the distance.
We will be in the Johla camp by late afternoon. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the river, or do a short acclimatisation walk if we wish. On a sunny day, the sun’s rays can be hot, so remember to keep sun creams and lots of water with you.
Night Stay at Johla Camp.
- ACCOMMODATION
- Summit Hotel or similar, Skardu
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
D-5) TREK TO PAJU (3,380m) 6 HOURS WALKING
Today will be your first walking day of K2 and Gondogoro La trek. After organising all the equipment and supplies our porters load up for the journey ahead towards Paju.
The path runs for a while at the very edge of the Braldu river, before climbing to higher ground and allowing us excellent views of the impressive Paiju Peak. You have to negotiate a couple of streams, depending on the melting of the glaciers above, you may have to ford these (sports sandals or old trainers useful). Paiju is a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak (6,611m). From this camp, you have the first views of the immense Baltoro Glacier and granite peaks of the Trango and Cathedral groups, and in the weather, we may get a glimpse of K2.
- Night stay at Paiju camp.
- Ascent 330m, Descent 160m
- ACCOMMODATION
- Full-service Camping
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
D-6) TREK TO KHOBURTSE (3,760m) 7 HOURS WALKING
Another early start today. From your camp at Paiju, a walk of approximately one hour brings you to the snout of the Baltoro Glacier. After viewing the outpouring of melt water from the ice we now climb up onto the back of this great beast. At this point, the ice of the glacier is completely covered by rubble and rocks, and although we are following a trail used by many expeditions, going here can be quite tough. The trail undulated as we climb over the swells of the flowing glacier and it is fascinating to think that the stones underfoot could have come from the summit of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum or K2. Gradually we work our way across the glacier to its south side where we can use a path along the lateral moraine. Heading roughly east we continue, sometimes on the moraine and sometimes down beside the glacier until we reach a side valley. At this point, it may be possible to continue more or less directly by climbing up onto the glacier. Or, if the glacier is not easily accessible, we will turn off into the valley for approximately half an hour to reach a point where we can cross the meltwater stream (sandals or old trainers are required). Finally reaching the camping place at Khorburtse (3,760m) we have sensational views of the Cathedral Towers, the Trango Group and the striking rock tower of Uli Biaho. A great day of trekking over difficult and mixed terrain.
- Night stay at Paiju camp.
- Ascent 330m, Descent 160m
- ACCOMMODATION
- Full-service Camping
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
D-7) TREAK TO URDUKAS (4,130m) 4 HOUR WALKING
Today is a short day but quite hard work as we walk up the undulating moraine and gaining height all the way. We continue east beside the Baltoro Glacier either along the lateral moraine or sometimes on the glacier itself, passing the ship-like prow of Great Trango and the isolated pillar of the ‘Nameless Tower’ to our next camp at Urdukas. It has sensational views of the Trango Towers to the west and directly opposite, and almost a mile away across the valley, the vast rock walls of Cathedral Peak and Lobsang rise like ramparts above the glacier. This is an incredible place. We should reach here in time for a late lunch, and the rest of the afternoon is free to camp, relax and soak up our fabulous Mountain vistas.
- Night stay at Paiju camp.
- Ascent 330m, Descent 160m
- ACCOMMODATION
- Full-service Camping
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
D-8) ACCLIMATISING DAY AT URDUKAS (4,130m)
From many years of k2 and Gondogoro La trek experience, we have learnt that taking a rest day at Urdukas has worked well, the advantages of spending an extra night here are helpful. It helps the acclimatization process and has proved more effective than a rest day at Paiju.
This is the last campsite on grassy slopes off the main glacier, it also has facilities for washing and cleaning. There is a pleasant walk behind the campsite through grassy slopes full of alpine flowers. Climbing high & sleeping low is the best way to help the acclimatisation process.
- Night stay at Paiju camp.
- Ascent 330m, Descent 160m
- ACCOMMODATION
- Full-service Camping
- MEALS
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
Day 9: Trek to Biale Glacier Lobsang base camp
- Begin trek to Lobsang BC
- Witness stunning views of snow-capped peaks and vast glaciers
Day 10: Establish Base Camp
- Set up base camp at Lobsang Spire's foothill
- Acclimatization activities and mountaineering instruction
Days 11-20: Climbing Lobsang Spire and nearby peaks
- Ascend Lobsang Spire, establishing higher camps
- Learn and implement climbing techniques under guide supervision
Day 21: Summit Push
- Final push to Lobsang Spire summit
- Enjoy panoramic views of the Karakoram Mountains
Days 22-24: Descent and walk down to Askole
- Carefully descend, retracing steps
- Return to Askole
Days 25 - 26: Skardu and Departure to Islamabad
- Carefully descend, retracing steps
- Return to Skardu, celebrate with a group dinner
- Depart from Skardu, bidding farewell to the Karakoram Mountains
Days 26-27: Departure back home.
- Reach Islamabad for your return flight back home. Return to Skardu, celebrate with a group dinner
- Depart from Skardu, bidding farewell to the Karakoram Mountains
