Broad Peak fixed departure expedition every year in June
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Broad Peak Climbing Expedition

Broad Peak Climbing Expedition

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Karakoram, Pakistan

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Summer

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Broad Peak Climbing Expedition

Broad Peak Expedition Pakistan stands at a towering 8047 meters. It is part of the Karakoram Range, nestled near the Baltoro Glacier, adjacent to the renowned K2. This unique triple-summit peak distinguishes it, adding to its distinctive allure in mountaineering. Though it might not claim the same fame as K2, it commands its majestic presence, offering a compelling challenge to seasoned climbers and adventurers, primarily due to its peculiar summit layout.

Expedition Highlights:

  • Thrilling mountaineering journey in the heart of the Karakoram.
  • 12th highest mountain globally, reaching 8,051 meters.
  • Navigate through diverse landscapes with crucial weather preparations.
  • Conquer the summit with a rich history of achievements.

Height:

Standing proudly as the 12th highest mountain in the world, Broad Peak, locally known as ‘Falchan Kangri,’ reaches an elevation of 8,051 meters (26,414 feet) above sea level. Named for its sheer bulk and breadth at the top, it dominates the skyline, showcasing its formidable presence neighbouring K2.

Weather:

The weather conditions play a crucial role in the success of the Broad Peak Expedition. The expedition typically spans from Islamabad International Airport, the nearest international airport, to Skardu, offering a spectacular mountain view flight. From Skardu, trekkers journey through the mighty Indus, Shigar, and Braldu Rivers to reach Askoli, the last village, before entering the wilderness of the Karakoram mountains. Weather preparations are essential, and the journey unfolds amidst the stunning landscapes of the Himalayas and Karakoram Mountain Peaks.

Trekking Route:

The journey from Skardu unfolds through a scenic trail leading to Askoli, marking the final village before embarking upon the trek. The route continues to Paiju, strategically pausing for a day’s rest as porters prepare provisions for the glacier leg of the journey. Further, it progresses to Urdukas, an idyllic spot showcasing the Trango Towers and Uli Biaho. The voyage culminates at Concordia, revealing breathtaking views of the grandeur of K2, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum IV.

Access and Base Camp:

The expedition to Broad Peak commences from Islamabad, Pakistan’s capital, and Rawalpindi, a city adjacent to Islamabad. The journey includes completing essential governmental formalities crucial for any mountaineering venture. The path then leads to Skardu in the Baltistan district, with two primary travel options—by air, a swift one-hour flight presenting stunning aerial views of Nanga Parbat, or by road, following the mesmerizing Karakoram Highway, providing a more immersive experience despite its extended duration. Skardu acts as the crucial stepping stone before the actual trekking phase.

Base Camp and Climbing Strategy:

The expedition at Base Camp, positioned at 5,000 meters, involves meticulous planning for a successful ascent. The climb is characterized by multiple sub-camps at strategic elevations of approximately 5800, 6250, and 6900 meters. Climbing Broad Peak demands caution due to challenging avalanche-prone terrain. Climbers typically strategize their ascent, choosing between camps like Camp 3 or a supplementary camp established at 7400 meters.

First Summit:

The summit of Broad Peak, achieved for the first time in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl, is a testament to the spirit of adventure and mountaineering prowess. Climbing through a rock gully to Camp I (6,000m) and ascending through a large snow face to Camp II at around 6,400m, the expedition culminates at a final camp at 7,400m. While the climbing may not be extremely steep, the remote setting adds to the challenge, uniquely rewarding the experience.

History:

Winter Attempts (1987/88):

Winter expeditions gained momentum as Andrzej Zawada led the first International Winter Expedition to K2. Although the team failed on K2, Aleksander Lwow and Maciej Berbeka attempted Broad Peak, reaching the Fore Peak.

South West Face (2005):

Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov climbed a new route up the South West Face in Alpine style, marking a significant achievement in 2005.

West Face Variation (2008):

Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev climbed Broad Peak’s central pillar up the West Face via a variation route in alpine style in 2008.

Recent Summits (2019/2023):

In 2019, 17-year-old Shehroze Kashif became the youngest to summit. In 2023, Nirmal Purja and Migma G added to the mountain’s legacy in their quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.

Tour Detail:

D-1) ARRIVAL DAY IN ISLAMABAD, PAKISTAN:

Welcome to Pakistan. Most international flights arrive at Islamabad International Airport in the mornings. Your Guide will meet and greet you at the airport and then transfer you to the hotel. The rest of the days are free to recover from your journey. Later in the day, when everyone has arrived, we will have a group briefing about the Broad Peak Expedition. Depending on the time available to us, there may be an option to do some sightseeing in Islamabad, A purpose-built City in 1961 as the new capital of Pakistan.

  • ACCOMMODATION
  • Hill View Hotel or similar
  • MEALS
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

D-2) ISLAMABAD TO SKARDU FLIGHT, 45 minutes (2,230m):

If canceled, Drive KKH to Chillas, Isb to Chillas, 461km. 8-9 H-Drive

Rise early to take a spectacular mountain view flight (weather permitting) across The Karakoram and Himalayan mountain range to Skardu, the capital of Baltistan. It’s a 45-minute flight that offers fantastic mountains views of the Himalayas & Karakoram mountains; it also enjoys the breathtaking views of the world’s 9th highest peak, Nanga Parbat (8,126m); if the weather is clear, then you might be able to see K2 and Gondogoro Pass as well. Check in to the hotel, rest of the day will be spent visiting the local Bazars, historical forts, and scenic lakes or see the ancient rock inscriptions, one of which is of 8th century Manthal Lord Buddha Rock that shows traces of Buddhist monks and pilgrims who influenced the area before Islam.

  • ACCOMMODATION
  • Summit Hotel or similar
  • MEALS
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

D-3) SIGHTSEEING & PREPARATION DAY, SKARDU:

In the morning, you can walk up to the remains of Kharpocho Fort (built early 1700), which overlooks the town and has a great view of the Indus River. If you are into photography, this is a perfect location to take photos of Skardu Town at sunrise or sunset. (we can arrange this for you). We will then walk to a small village called Organic Village, which grows all its crops organically. The afternoon is free to explore. Perhaps you would like to take an optional jeep tour to Satpara Lake or explore the bazaar. Skardu is the getaway to many famous Karakoram mountains, including Broad Peak.

  • ACCOMMODATION
  • Summit Hotel or similar
  • MEALS
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

D-4) DRIVE TO ASKOLI (3,100 m) 8 HOURS

D-5) TREK TO JHULA (3,100 m) 4 HOURS

D-6) TREK TO PAJU (3,380m) 6 HOURS WALKING

D-7) TREK TO KHOBURTSE (3,760m) 7 HOURS WALKING

D-8) TREAK TO URDUKAS (4,130m) 4 HOUR WALKING

D-9) ACCLIMATISING DAY AT URDUKAS (4,130m)

D-10) TREAK TO GORO II (4,250m) 6 to 7 HOURS WALKING

D-11) TREAK TO CONCORDIA (4,600m) 5 HOURS WALKING

D-12) TREAK TO BROAD PEAK BASE CAMP (5,000m) 4 HOURS WALKING

D-13) TREAK TO K2 BASE CAMP & BACK TO CONCORDIA (5,150m) 7 HOURS WALKING

D-14) TREAK TO ALI CAMP (5,000m) 6 HOURS WALKING

D-15) CROSS GONDOGORO LA TO KHUSPANG (5,600m) 10-11 HOURS WALKING

D-16) SPARE TREK DAY IN CASE OF DELAYS

D-17) KHUSPANG TO SAICHO (3,350m) 6-7 HOURS WALKING

D-18) TREK TO HUSHE 2 HOURS, DRIVE TO SKARDU 7-HOUR

D-19) FLY BACK TO ISLAMABAD

D-20) DEPARTURE DAY-FLY BACK HOME

Activities

trekking

Map & Itinerary of K2 and Gondogoro La Trek

K2 and Gondogoro La Trek Date and Prices For The New Year

Start

End

Status

Price

Deposit

Registration

05 June
25 June
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
10 June
5 July
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
15 June
10 July
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
20 June
15 July
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
25 June
20 July
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
30 June
25 July
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
05 July
30 July
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
10 July
4 August
Guaranteed
$1800
$170
15 July
9 August
Guaranteed
$1800
$170

K2 and Gondogoro La Trek Information 2026

What’s Included

  • Islamabad airport transfers for international flights
  • Domestic flights and airport transfers
  • Up to 20 kg personal luggage allowance during the trek
  • All land transport as mentioned in the itinerary
  • Accommodation as described
  • All meals (three times a day) and unlimited water refills
  • Private vehicle and driver services
  • All permit fees, royalty fees, and Gondogoro La crossing fee
  • Full trekking service including food and equipment (excluding personal gear)
  • English-speaking, government-licensed and experienced mountain guide
  • All wages and basic gear for guides, sirdars, porters, cooks, and assistants
  • Insurance for porters, guides, and crew (excluding helicopter rescue)
  • Sleeping and mess tents
  • Satellite phone for emergencies
  • Generator/solar panels for light and charging electronic devices
  • Basic first-aid medicine kit
  • Domestic flights with 20 kg check-in and 7 kg hand luggage
  • Free storage in Islamabad and Skardu
  • Unlimited boiled water refills during the trek

What’s Not Included

  • Travel insurance and international flights
  • Pakistan visa fee
  • Tips for local guides and trekking staff
  • Personal trekking equipment (sleeping bag, boots, crampons, harnesses, etc.)
  • Airport charges for extra luggage
  • Guided sightseeing in Islamabad and Skardu
  • Miscellaneous personal expenses and souvenirs

Meal Plan

At Jasmine Tours, we make sure you focus solely on your adventure. Our K2 and Gondogoro La trek is fully inclusive of all meals — from lunch on Day 1 to breakfast on Day 20. You can enjoy a complete trekking holiday in Pakistan without worrying about meals or logistics.

Accommodation

Throughout the trek, you’ll spend 3 nights in Islamabad in a comfortable 3-star hotel and 2 nights in Skardu (before and after the trek) in tourist-standard accommodations with twin sharing and en-suite facilities. During the 13 nights of trekking, you’ll camp in twin-sharing tents.

Solo travelers will be paired with another traveler of the same gender. You may hire a private tent for an additional cost. Single hotel rooms are available with a supplementary charge and subject to availability. For customized accommodation or hotel extensions, contact Jasmine Tours.

Internal Flight Details

Skardu Flights: Skardu Airport is surrounded by high mountains, so flights depend on weather conditions. In case of cancellations, we will travel by road via the scenic Karakoram Highway (KKH). With the recent upgrade of Skardu Airport to international status and GPS technology, flight cancellations are now very rare.

In case of cancellation, we’ll drive from Islamabad to Naran (9 hours) for an overnight stay, then continue to Skardu (10 hours) the next day — offering a spectacular journey through the valleys and along the Indus River.

Health & Vaccination

Consult your doctor or travel clinic before your trip. Standard UK immunizations such as DTP and MMR are recommended, along with Hepatitis A and Typhoid. Malaria prophylaxis is optional since there is no malaria risk in Skardu or the mountains.
Dengue fever prevention is advised — use insect repellent and protective clothing.

Insurance

Jasmine Tours strongly recommends comprehensive travel insurance that covers trekking above 4,000m and emergency evacuation. Please ensure your insurer approves your full itinerary before booking.

Recommended insurance providers include HCC Medical Insurance Services, Travelex, True Traveller, World Nomads, Snowcard, and The B.M.C.

Mountain Guide & Support Staff

You’ll be guided by an expert, government-licensed mountain guide, supported by a professional team of porters, cooks, and assistants who ensure safety, comfort, and hospitality throughout the trek.

Altitude

The K2 and Gondogoro La trek reaches altitudes over 5,000m, with overnight stays above 4,000m. Our itinerary ensures a gradual ascent for proper acclimatization. If you’re new to high-altitude trekking, contact our trekking specialists at Jasmine Tours for guidance.

Climate

From mid-June to August, expect pleasant trekking conditions — around 30°C in Skardu and 25°C in Askole. Above 4,000m, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, occasionally reaching -10°C to -15°C. Weather is generally clear, with minimal rainfall.

Recommended Reading

  • Trekking in Pakistan – Isobel Shaw
  • Karakoram Highway – King
  • In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods – Galen Rowell
  • K2 Triumph and Tragedy – Jim Curran

Passport & Visa

All foreign nationals require a visa for Pakistan. Jasmine Tours provides the necessary Letter of Introduction and permit copies for your visa application.
Apply online at visa.nadra.gov.pk.

Refund Policy

Secure your place with a $170 deposit per person. The deposit is fully refundable if the trip is cancelled due to COVID-19, security concerns, or political situations in Pakistan or your home country.

Equipment List

Keep your trekking gear as light as possible — your trek bag (including sleeping bag and mattress) must not exceed 20 kg. Non-essential items can be safely stored at our hotels in Islamabad or Skardu. A detailed packing checklist will be provided before departure.

K2 and Gondogoro La Trek Information 2026

What’s Included

  • Islamabad airport transfers for international flights
  • Domestic flights and airport transfers
  • Up to 20 kg personal luggage allowance during the trek
  • All land transport as mentioned in the itinerary
  • Accommodation as described
  • All meals (three times a day) and unlimited water refills
  • Private vehicle and driver services
  • All permit fees, royalty fees, and Gondogoro La crossing fee
  • Full trekking service including food and equipment (excluding personal gear)
  • English-speaking, government-licensed and experienced mountain guide
  • All wages and basic gear for guides, sirdars, porters, cooks, and assistants
  • Insurance for porters, guides, and crew (excluding helicopter rescue)
  • Sleeping and mess tents
  • Satellite phone for emergencies
  • Generator/solar panels for light and charging electronic devices
  • Basic first-aid medicine kit
  • Domestic flights with 20 kg check-in and 7 kg hand luggage
  • Free storage in Islamabad and Skardu
  • Unlimited boiled water refills during the trek

What’s Not Included

  • Travel insurance and international flights
  • Pakistan visa fee
  • Tips for local guides and trekking staff
  • Personal trekking equipment (sleeping bag, boots, crampons, harnesses, etc.)
  • Airport charges for extra luggage
  • Guided sightseeing in Islamabad and Skardu
  • Miscellaneous personal expenses and souvenirs

Meal Plan

At Jasmine Tours, we make sure you focus solely on your adventure. Our K2 and Gondogoro La trek is fully inclusive of all meals — from lunch on Day 1 to breakfast on Day 20. You can enjoy a complete trekking holiday in Pakistan without worrying about meals or logistics.

Accommodation

Throughout the trek, you’ll spend 3 nights in Islamabad in a comfortable 3-star hotel and 2 nights in Skardu (before and after the trek) in tourist-standard accommodations with twin sharing and en-suite facilities. During the 13 nights of trekking, you’ll camp in twin-sharing tents.

Solo travelers will be paired with another traveler of the same gender. You may hire a private tent for an additional cost. Single hotel rooms are available with a supplementary charge and subject to availability. For customized accommodation or hotel extensions, contact Jasmine Tours.

Internal Flight Details

Skardu Flights: Skardu Airport is surrounded by high mountains, so flights depend on weather conditions. In case of cancellations, we will travel by road via the scenic Karakoram Highway (KKH). With the recent upgrade of Skardu Airport to international status and GPS technology, flight cancellations are now very rare.

In case of cancellation, we’ll drive from Islamabad to Naran (9 hours) for an overnight stay, then continue to Skardu (10 hours) the next day — offering a spectacular journey through the valleys and along the Indus River.

Health & Vaccination

Consult your doctor or travel clinic before your trip. Standard UK immunizations such as DTP and MMR are recommended, along with Hepatitis A and Typhoid. Malaria prophylaxis is optional since there is no malaria risk in Skardu or the mountains.
Dengue fever prevention is advised — use insect repellent and protective clothing.

Insurance

Jasmine Tours strongly recommends comprehensive travel insurance that covers trekking above 4,000m and emergency evacuation. Please ensure your insurer approves your full itinerary before booking.

Recommended insurance providers include HCC Medical Insurance Services, Travelex, True Traveller, World Nomads, Snowcard, and The B.M.C.

Mountain Guide & Support Staff

You’ll be guided by an expert, government-licensed mountain guide, supported by a professional team of porters, cooks, and assistants who ensure safety, comfort, and hospitality throughout the trek.

Altitude

The K2 and Gondogoro La trek reaches altitudes over 5,000m, with overnight stays above 4,000m. Our itinerary ensures a gradual ascent for proper acclimatization. If you’re new to high-altitude trekking, contact our trekking specialists at Jasmine Tours for guidance.

Climate

From mid-June to August, expect pleasant trekking conditions — around 30°C in Skardu and 25°C in Askole. Above 4,000m, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, occasionally reaching -10°C to -15°C. Weather is generally clear, with minimal rainfall.

Recommended Reading

  • Trekking in Pakistan – Isobel Shaw
  • Karakoram Highway – King
  • In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods – Galen Rowell
  • K2 Triumph and Tragedy – Jim Curran

Passport & Visa

All foreign nationals require a visa for Pakistan. Jasmine Tours provides the necessary Letter of Introduction and permit copies for your visa application.
Apply online at visa.nadra.gov.pk.

Refund Policy

Secure your place with a $170 deposit per person. The deposit is fully refundable if the trip is cancelled due to COVID-19, security concerns, or political situations in Pakistan or your home country.

Equipment List

Keep your trekking gear as light as possible — your trek bag (including sleeping bag and mattress) must not exceed 20 kg. Non-essential items can be safely stored at our hotels in Islamabad or Skardu. A detailed packing checklist will be provided before departure.

From $1800

One Tour Per Person

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Overview

Location and name
Broad Peak, the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 meters, is located in the Karakoram Range in Northeastern Pakistan. The mountain is located along the western Baltoro glacier between K2 and Gasherbrum IV.

The first westerner who saw the peak was probably Lieutenant T.G. Montgomerie. He was surveying the mountains in the area and in 1856 he spotted some extraordinary peaks, which he gave temporary names. K for Karakoram + a number for the peak. K1, K2, K3 etc. Montgomerie later found out K1had a local name; Masherbrum. K2, still goes under that name, even if some have proposed to re-name it Qogori, a name used by some local people. K3, the third peak to be measured by Montgomerie didn’t have a local name.
The summit ridge of the peak is almost 2 km long and therefore British explorer W.M. Conway thought Broad Peak was a suitable name.

Conway noted: “a fine breadth of mountain splendour…a huge Breithorn, as it were, filing the space between K2 and the hidden Gasherbrum.” The name won general acceptance, but some zealots on a mission to get rid of all western names wanted a local name on the peak. They did not find any credible name candidates, so they did what they considered second best: they simply translated Broad Peak into Balti, the local Tibetan dialect. The name – P’alchan Kangri/Ri. It became a bit bastardized over the years and is nowadays spelled and pronounced Falchen Kangri, which is completely off the mark as there are no “f-sounds” in Balti.

One or two 8000m peaks?

A sometimes raging debate about Broad Peak having one of two “real summits” has been going on for a long time. Most people agree on the fact the central peak is not a separate summit, but the advocates in favor of counting it as one points at the snow on the col in between this summit and the main summit. If the snow are melting due to global warming, Broad Peak central would certainly qualify as the 15’th 8000m peak. Another issue connected to global warming is the fact that the snow on the true summit is melting and the fore summit may overtake it in height. This would be welcomed by climbers as the trickiest part of the whole climb would disappear.

First ascents of the main summits

Broad Peak has three separate summits: main summit 8,047 meters, central summit 8,016 meters, and north summit 7,550 meters.

The first ascent of the main summit was made in 1957 by an Austrian expedition consisting of only four climbing members. Using many of the fixed lines set up by the failed German expedition of 1954, all four summited without using oxygen. Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck didn’t have the help of any HAPs (high altitude porters) or guides and the climb was a remarkable success for alpine style climbing, as it occurred well before the time of small independent teams attempting the highest peaks on earth.
Clouds around Broad Peak early in the morning

Broad Peak Middle was climbed by five members of Polish expedition: Marek Kesicki, Bohdan Nowaczyk, Kazimierz Glazek, Janusz Kulis and Andrzej Sikorski. They summited on 28th of July 1975. Kesicki, Nowaczyk and Sikorski died during the descent.
The leader of this expedition was Janusz Ferenski.

The north summit was finally acquired in 1983 by an Italian expedition led by Renato Casarotto.

Climbing Broad Peak

From the first ascent in 1957 to August 2003, Broad Peak was climbed 255 times and had 18 deaths. The fatality rate is therefore about 7%, which could be compared with for example Everest which has a death rate of 9%. It is one of the safer 8000m peaks, but the risk of avalanches should never be disregarded.

Many teams today use the moderate climbing on Broad Peak to acclimatize for a rapid alpine style ascent of K2. The main route to the summit, via the west ridge, is moderately strenuous, but like other mountains in the Karakoram range, weather is often the determining factor.

Only 5 people have climbed twice and no-one more than that.

To the true summit or not?

Broad Peak is as Xixabangma and Cho Oyu a peak where a huge majority of “summiteers” don’t reach the true summit. A lot stop at the fore-summit and claim to have climbed Broad Peak. In 1994 Hans Kammerlander was sick of this and left a piece of red and purple rope, attached to a ski pole on the summit and asked other climbers what they had seen up there.

Later Ascents

1984 One astonishing ascent occurred in July of by the amazing Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki. He left base camp at 4,850 meters at midnight, reaching camp1 at 4am, camp2 at 8am, the col at 2pm, and the main summit by 4pm. His ascent of 3,150 meters in less than 14 hours was an incredible achievement for its time. He completed the round trip in just over 22 hours, all solo. This solo ascent of an 8,000 meter peak in a day was not repeated until 1986.

1994 Even faster than Wielicki was Swede Göran Kropp when he soloed the peak in 18½h.

1982 Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka read their climbing permit for K2 carefully. it said: Acclimatization on lower peaks in the area allowed.
As Broad Peak is lower than K2, they came to the conclusion it may be allowed and went for the summit as a step in the acclimatization process. On the way up they met Messner, who asked them if they had summited. Kurtyka told messner: We were in the area. Messner smiled and said: Yes. Yes. Understood. He further promised not to tell anyone about the meeting. Messner kept quiet until he released his book “Three Times Eight”.

See the booklist for Kukuczka’s and Messner’s books about this incident and more interesting reading about their climbs of all the 14 8000’rs.

From Skardu to Broad Peak.
There are two routes to the peak from Skardu – via Askole or via Gondogoro Pass. The former is to recommend if you’re not acclimatized. Gondogoro Pass is a mighty 5600m, so most trekkers use this route for the way back.

To Askole.
A jeep ride takes 6-8h on partly miserable roads.
In Askole you can either camp out in the wild or use the one of the camping places, Facilities includes toilets, running water and a grassy, walled camping area.

The first camp site along the route is Jhula. It takes anywhere between 4 and 8 hours to reach Jhula from Askole and the trek is very straight forward. Most of the time you walk on good paths along a river. An early start is recommended as it gets very hot in this area. Two bridges where you have to pay a small fee have to be crossed. Jhula has shower cabins, running water, toilets and camp platforms.

Normally, there is not a problem to reach Paiju the second day. The trek is harder as you sometimes walk in sand along the rivers and there are some ups and downs en route. Paiju has the same facilities. The place can be very crowded in the high season and if you don’t like that, just continue for another 20 minutes to the first stream or to where the glacier start, where a very good place to camp is situated. Fresh water available here.

The next camping place is Urdukas, which has very good views of the Trango group. The camp site is situated on a hillside with good camp spots. Facilities is the same as Jhula and Paiju. If you want to go further or a part of the way to Urdukas, remember you’ll be camping on the actual glacier.

From here on the length of a normal day trip varies a lot depending on how the persons in the group feel. There are some camps along the way, but they are all very basic, consisting of shelters built of rocks. Most groups stop at Goro II, some stop an hour before this camp, Goro I and some go all the way to Concordia.

Concordia, which could be one of the most beautiful places on earth is sadly full of garbage and human waste. To the left you can see Broad Peak and K2. Ahead you Gasherbrum IV is looming and to your right is the impressive Mitre.

The rest of the way to Broad Peak BC is an easy 3-hour walk on upper Baltoro glacier.

Walking out via Gondogoro Pass

Gondogoro Pass (or La as it is in the local language) is sometimes stated to be the highest pass in the world and the altitude given on many maps are over 5900m. It’s not that high, but at 5600m it’s still a very impressive pass. Many teams choose to walk out this way because of the outstanding views from the pass summit. Masherbrum (7821m) is very close and to your NW you see the whole Gasherbrum group, Chogolisa (7665m), Baltoro Kangri (7800m) and a lot of other high beautiful peaks. To the north K2 and Broad Peak are visible. In the south the extraordinary Laila Peak can be seen.

From Concordia it’s a long day’s walk to Ali Camp. First you walk past Mitre Peak and head up the next valley/glacier on your right hand side. Watch out for rock falls when entering the valley and try to gain access to the icy part of the glacier as soon as possible. Better to walk up there then down in the scree. When approaching Ali Camp, watch out for crevasses.

For an acclimatized mountaineer, this is probably normal. It can be very windy on top of the pass, as it is a lot of elevation drop on the SW side. Don’t trust the ropes on this side either. It’s quite steep on this side (40-45 degrees). Stay up high on the right-hand side if no tracks. There are glaciers in the middle of the glacier further down. The path gets really good before the little camp site of Xhuspang/Shispang, where you also can get very basic meals.

The glacier gets more difficult to travel after the camp and when you have passed the first rocky part and entered the main valley, stay to the left all the time. Doing so makes you avoid all the large crevasses and the left hand side is also the side you leave the valley on. When at the bottom of the first valley, take a left and enter some very nice meadows with yaks. Excellent views of sharp peaks. Some tricky, slide sections have to be passed. The walk gets easier again when heading down the lower part of the Gondogoro glacier towards Shaishcho. In this little settlement you can eat and pitch your tent under nice-smelling wild roses.
From here it’s a very easy 2 to 3 hour walk to Hushe.
The Hushe – Skardu road is of awful condition for the first couple of hours. Lots of apricot orchards followed. From close to Khaplu the road is asphalt all the way into Skardu. Count on 5-8 hours from Hushe to Skardu.

Routes Overview

·  Standard Route – West Ridge
1957 – Austrian. Wintersteller, Diemberger, Buhl and Schmuck.

·  Carsolio Route – West Ridge to South Face
1994 – Mexican. Carsolio.

·  The Long Summit Ridge Traverse
1984 – Polish. Kukuczka and Kurtyka.

·  South West Face
2005 – Russian/Italian. Urubko

The false summit of Broad Peak

Permits for Broad Peak

You need a permit to climb the peak, which you can get hold via an expedition agent (www.jasminetours.com) The fees is :

Broad Peak: 2500 USD per person (2025) up to 15 members in one team.

.
An environmental (Central Karakoram National Park) fee of $200 also have to be taken into account.

When To Climb

June to September is the normal climbing season.

Broad Peak has also been attempted in the winter. The rocky summit (lower part of main summit) (8,016 meters) was climbed in the winter by Maciej Berbeka of Zakopane, Poland in 1988. Maciej mistook this summit for the main summit in poor weather. In 2003, a Spanish team attempted a winter ascent but were turned back by extreme wind and cold. Several camps were destroyed, but luckily no-one perished. Most of these winter ascent including successful Polish Winter summit was organize by Jasmine Tours.

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