Diran Mountain, nestled between the Rakaposhi and Haramosh Mountains in the illustrious Karakoram Range, graces the Nagar Valley with its towering presence. This 7,266-meter pyramid-shaped wonder entices adventurers with its challenging allure, concealed crevasses, and the drama of unpredictable weather, all of which yielded to the indomitable spirit of an Austrian expedition in 1968. Accessible via the enchanting Karakoram Highway, Diran Mountain continues to be a siren call to mountaineers and adventurers seeking high-altitude triumph.

Nagar Valley:

once a princely state now stands as one of the ten districts within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. This valley is situated along the renowned Karakoram Highway as one travels northward from Gilgit. The valley has many high mountain peaks, including Rakaposhi (7788m), Diran Peak (7265m), Golden Peak, and Rush Peak.

Mountain Details:

Diran Peak, a mesmerizing feature of the Karakoram Range, resides gracefully between the towering Rakaposhi and Haramosh Massif. Nestled within the Nagar Valley, Diran stands tall at an impressive elevation of 7,266 meters (23,839 feet), sharing its majestic realm with Rakaposhi, a neighboring giant that reaches an astounding 7,788 meters (25,551 feet).

Access Routes:

To commence this high-altitude journey, the typical approach starts in Gilgit, leading to Minapin through Hapaken and the Boulter Glacier. This picturesque journey offers breathtaking views of the Nagar Valley, adorned with lush agricultural fields and thriving orchards. Alternatively, the enchanting Karakoram Highway, which meanders through the Hunza Valley, provides a convenient route to the awe-inspiring realm of Diran Peak.

Climbing Challenges:

Conquering Diran is no small feat. The peak is renowned for its technical difficulties, including formidable ice walls, elusive hidden crevasses, and treacherous soft snowfields. It is further notorious for the unpredictability of its fierce storms and the perpetual risk of avalanches, making it a formidable undertaking for even the most seasoned climbers.

Austrian Expedition of 1968:

In 1968, a triumphant three-member Austrian expedition led by Rainer Goschl and accompanied by Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell undertook the daring ascent of Diran Peak. Their journey commenced with the establishment of Camp 1 at 4800 meters, where they encountered significant challenges such as navigating big crevasses, enduring inclement weather, and trekking through deep snow as they ascended toward Camp II at 5500 meters. The pivotal moment in their expedition occurred at Camp III, positioned at an altitude of 6300 meters. From there, the party successfully reached the summit of Diran Peak, which they described as a "big summit plateau." Their chosen route involved a rising traverse across the intricate North Face of the peak, eventually leading them to the crest of the West Ridge before their final push to the summit. While technically straightforward in favorable snow conditions, this route gained notoriety for its objective dangers and avalanche risks, making their accomplishment all the more impressive.

Join our Expedition:

Join our exclusive Diran Peak expeditions for an unforgettable high-altitude adventure in the heart of the Karakoram Range. Whether you prefer the challenges of a summer climb or the thrill of a winter ascent, we offer guided expeditions to this iconic peak. As part of our services, we provide a 90% peak fee discount for private groups, making your journey even more accessible. Contact us now for a personalized quote, comprehensive services, and a well-structured program to conquer Diran Peak or Minapin Peak. Take advantage of this opportunity to explore one of Pakistan's most beautiful and formidable mountains.