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Tirich Mir 7708m

Tirich Mir/Dir Gol Zom 7708 m

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Despite 2000 being the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Tirich Mir, the highest peak in the Hindu Kush, no expeditions attempted this 7,708m giant. Its ascent by Arne Naess's Norwegian team was rather overshadowed by the first ascent of Annapurna earlier the same year, yet prior to 1950 the only summits higher than Tirich Mir to have been successfully reached by climbers were Kamet and Nanda Devi. However, last July there was a anniversary reunion in the Hurrungane region of Norway and unlike members of the Annapurna team, almost all of whom are now no longer with us, each of the four summiteers (Per Kvernberg, solo, followed a day later by Henry Berg, Naess and Tony Streather) was happily able to turn up for the celebrations.

There was one expedition on the flanks of Tirich Mir; Hidehiro Minami's mature five-person Japanese expedition. Three members, including the leader, were successful on Dir Gol Zom. This shapely 6,778m peak rises only short distance from the Upper Tirich Glacier and although not often climbed as an end in itself, is sometimes snatched via an ascent of its straightforward East Ridge by expeditions attempting Tirich Mir's North Side Normal Route. The first ascent was made in July 1968 by eight members of Ivan Galfy's Slovakian team, which went on to make the first ascent of Tirich Mir's North West Ridge. They were followed just one month later by the three-man team of Diemberger (), Kondo () and Proske ().

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