Three miles across the Trango Glacier and just above the confluence of the North and South Hainablak glaciers was the elusive Shipton Spire. It rises out of the ice without hesitation; its walls looked fierce and steep.
It wasn't until the summer of 1996 that a strong North American/Australian team finally conquered Shipton Spire 5900m.
In 1995 Ryuji Taniguchi, the solo Japanese climber who perished in a massive rock fall while attempting the wall. His haul bag was still 13 pitches up.
And in 1997 Jared Ogred and Mark Synnott make a New Route, Ship of Fools on Shipton Spire.
Since then many climber from around the world including Cecilia, Nan Darkis, Lizzy Scully, Charles Boyd, Greg Child, Greg Foweraker tried their luck on this rock tower and few like Fabio Dandri who makes the Women and Chalk route and Jared Ogred and Mark Synnott who makes the Ship of Fools route got success.
The climbing is hard. A long unprotected traverse across mixed ground over the north face led to a steep section of crumbling rock with the consistency of kitty litter
Shipton Spire stand two hours walk from Trango Towers Group on Upper Trango Glacier. A 29 pitch, 4,400 foot big-wall with the pitch rated 6c, 7b and 7b+ that is certainly offer best technical climb you ever have.
From Islamabad a 24 hours drive will bring you to the gateway of Karakoram mountain Skardu Valley. After making final arrangement another 8 hours jeep drive and 5-6 days walk will bring you to the base of Shipton Spire.
We have spare 20 days for climbing from Base Camp and 15 days for Islamabad to base camp and back to Islamabad. No peak permit is require, simply get a trekking permit and travel with your guide and have a life time experience.
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